Meet Elizabeth Kelso, Baltaire’s New Wine Director
Meet Elizabeth Kelso, the new Wine Director at Baltaire, whose approach to wine balances an appreciation for the classics with a genuine curiosity for what’s worth discovering next.
From storied Burgundy and Northern Rhône producers to small, family-owned wineries closer to home, Elizabeth is already bringing her perspective to Baltaire’s expansive wine program. For our latest Hospitality Hot Takes, we sat down with her to talk about the bottles she’s excited about now, what she wishes more guests knew about red wine, her approach to the perfect steak pairing, and what’s ahead for Baltaire.
Q: What red wine are you most excited about on Baltaire’s list right now, and why?
Elizabeth: We recently added the 2023 Stolpman “Great Places” Syrah from Ballard Canyon in Santa Barbara. I love supporting small, family-owned local producers who are making really traditional wines.
What makes this one especially interesting is that it’s made from pre-clonal vine material originally from Domaine Auguste Clape’s Reynard parcel in Cornas in the Northern Rhône Valley, one of the region’s great Syrah producers. It’s such a unique project, taking this old vine material from France and growing it here in California.
Syrah is a classic pairing with steak of all kinds, especially with our au poivre sauce. It’s also a red that isn’t too heavy to drink while the weather is still warm at the end of summer.
Q: Is there a bottle, producer, region or varietal you think deserves more attention?
Elizabeth: Red Burgundy. We have a huge selection at Baltaire, but most of our guests come in looking for either Bordeaux or Napa Cabernet. Because we’re a steakhouse, that makes sense, but I like to introduce people to our Burgundy selection because I think it’s really exceptional.
Domaine Bruno Clair makes wine in Marsannay in the Côte de Nuits, and his wines offer really good value. We have several selections that are ready to drink now. For collectors looking to go big, we also happen to have one of the largest collections of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in Los Angeles.
Q: What red wine would you recommend to someone who usually drinks white wine?
Elizabeth: Langhe Nebbiolo. It has really good acidity and freshness, so it’s still light and bright.
Q: Are there opportunities to experience some of Baltaire’s more premium wines without ordering a bottle?
Elizabeth: Absolutely. Our rotating Sommelier Selections by the glass give guests the opportunity to taste more premium wines by the glass than you’ll find at many restaurants. I always recommend taking advantage of those selections because you may have the opportunity to experience something like Château Latour or Hundred Acre by the glass.
Q: Which wines would you pair with a filet versus a ribeye or Wagyu?
Elizabeth: Filet is so lean that you have a much broader range of pairing options. Right now I’m loving Burgundy, so I would choose the 2023 Domaine Jean-Marc Millot “Version Nord” Hautes-Côtes de Nuits with a filet.
With a ribeye, you want something with more structure, tannins and richness. My recommendation would be the 2016 Diamond Creek “Gravelly Meadow.” The rustic and earthy nature of the wine goes really well with the savory richness of a bigger, more marbled steak.
Wagyu’s delicate flavors and strong umami profile call for both tannins and acidity, but something lighter than Cabernet. I’d recommend a Barolo like the 2012 Roberto Voerzio “Case Nere” Riserva.
Q: What is the biggest misconception guests have about red wine?
Elizabeth: Understanding the term “dry.” Dry can mean not sweet, but people also use it to refer to the tannic nature of a wine.
When we talk about “dry,” it becomes a more in-depth conversation about how you want the wine to taste versus how you want the wine to feel on your palate. Those are two different things, and understanding that helps us guide someone toward what they’re actually looking for.
Q: How do you guide someone who asks for something “smooth,” “bold” or “not too dry”?
Elizabeth: Understanding the climate of specific places and the structure of different grape varieties really helps narrow it down. If someone wants something smooth, we might look for lower tannins or grape varieties with thinner skins. For something bold, we might look toward a warmer climate where the grapes ripen more thoroughly.
Knowing how much maceration and oak aging is typical in a particular place or from a specific producer is also key. All of those things help us translate what someone means by “smooth” or “bold” into a wine they’ll actually enjoy.
Q: What makes Baltaire’s wine list different from other Los Angeles steakhouses?
Elizabeth: The breadth of our selections is massive, from classic regions all around the world to the depth of verticals and vintages we have from legacy producers like Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Château Latour, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, William Selyem and Diamond Creek Vineyards.
Many steakhouses keep their lists tight around Napa Cabernet and Bordeaux because that’s what’s expected. We have incredible wines from some of the best producers and regions in the world, with the goal of having something for every palate, budget and level of wine knowledge. We’re very fortunate to have the opportunity to continue growing those offerings.
Q: Are there any recent additions, rare bottles or by-the-glass selections worth highlighting?
Elizabeth: Dragonette Pinot Noir from the Sta. Rita Hills in Santa Barbara is a recent addition that we’re now pouring by the glass. They’re a great small, family-owned local winery, and the wine goes really well with all of our bar food offerings.
We also just received our latest allocations from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, which is very exciting.
Q: What direction do you hope to take Baltaire’s wine program over the next year?
Elizabeth: I’m excited to do some interesting activations over the holidays with wine pairings, large-format bottles, and special and rare bottles that you normally wouldn’t have the luxury of opening.
I’m also really excited to continue building our inventory from heritage and legacy winemakers who represent the history and traditions of their regions.
For Elizabeth, a great wine program is as much about discovery as it is about the classics. At Baltaire, a contemporary steakhouse in Brentwood, Los Angeles, that means preserving a deep collection of storied producers and vintages while continuing to seek out wines with a story to tell, whether they come from Burgundy, the Northern Rhône or a small family-owned vineyard in Santa Barbara. With Elizabeth leading Baltaire’s wine program, and new pairings, rare pours and large-format bottles ahead, there will be plenty more to discover.